Ano Poli at sunset
A climb through the walls to the Heptapyrgion, the view opening at every turn.
Distance
2.4 km
Duration
120 minutes
Difficulty
Moderate
Best time
Two hours before sunset
Ano Poli is the part of Thessaloniki that escaped the great fire of 1917. That's why the narrow lanes, the Ottoman houses with their overhanging bays and the street pattern of earlier centuries survive here.
It is also the only route in this guide with a real climb. The reward is that at every turn the city spreads out lower and more of the Thermaic Gulf comes into view. Start early enough to be high up when the sun drops.
The numbered stops in route order. Tap a point for more.
The stops
- 1
Acheiropoietos
Start at Egnatia level. A 5th-century basilica and one of the city's oldest UNESCO monuments. The climb begins here.
- 2
Agios Dimitrios
The patron saint's church, the city's largest. Don't leave without going down into the **crypt**, the site of the saint's martyrdom.
- 3
Byzantine Walls
Here you meet the walls. Walk alongside them: their thickness and height explain why the city withstood so many sieges.
- 4
Vlatadon Monastery
A 14th-century Byzantine monastery, still active, with a quiet courtyard and peacocks. A good place to catch your breath before the last climb.
- 5
Heptapyrgion (Yedi Kule)
The highest point. A Byzantine acropolis used as a prison until 1989. The view from outside, with the sun dropping behind Mount Olympus, is why you climbed.
Practicalities
- Wear proper shoes. The cobbles are uneven and steep in places.
- The climb is real but gradual. Allow two hours with stops and photographs.
- For the descent there are city buses from Ano Poli down to the centre: if your knees object, don't hesitate.
- The cafés up in Ano Poli have some of the best views in the city; the price of the coffee reflects it.
When
Autumn and spring are ideal. In July and August set off no earlier than two hours before sunset. The climb in the heat is unpleasant.